Seller's guide
What listing here actually involves, what tends to go wrong on an old rig, and why moving it off your property is usually worth more than the price you get for it.
FreeMotorHomes.com is a listing board, nothing more. We do not inspect vehicles, verify titles or ownership, hold money, or take any part in the deals buyers and sellers make. Everything on this page — and every step of your sale — is solely the responsibility of the buyer and the seller. Rules on titles, towing, storage and junk vehicles differ by state, county and city, and they change over time, so confirm anything that matters with your own motor vehicle department, your city or a professional. This is general information, not legal advice.
Listing here is short, cheap and entirely under your control. Here is the whole of it, so nothing comes as a surprise.
An account first
You need a free account to post a listing — browsing stays open to everyone. Creating one takes a minute, and you can delete anything you post at any time.
Two price tiers, and that is deliberate
This site is built for rigs that are free or priced under $10,000. It is the place for giveaways, projects and honest cheap vehicles. If you are asking more than that, a general RV marketplace will find you more buyers.
Photos, then details, then publish
The listing wizard walks you through photos first, then the vehicle details and your contact information. You can go back and change anything before it goes live.
A one-time $2 listing fee
Posting costs $2 once. No commission, no cut of the sale, no monthly fee, and nothing to pay when it sells.
Buyers contact you directly
Your phone number and email address appear on the listing, and interested buyers call or write to you. We do not relay messages, screen buyers, or sit in the middle of the conversation.
You are in charge of the listing
Change the price, swap a photo, mark it sold, or delete it entirely from My Listings. What you post stays yours to manage.
What we do not do
We do not take a commission, hold deposits, run the transaction, inspect the vehicle, or verify titles. The sale is entirely between you and your buyer.
None of these are reasons not to try. They are simply what the process looks like, so you can plan around them.
Most buyers want turnkey, not a project
An older rig with honest problems attracts a smaller and more patient crowd. The buyers who do show up are usually looking for exactly that — price it like the project it is and you will find them.
Your paperwork will be inspected
Serious buyers check that the title is in your name, matches the VIN, and has no lien on it. Get your title, your ID and a lien release, if there is one, sorted before the first person arrives.
Expect the hard questions
When was it last driven? What leaks? Has it been in an accident? What has been replaced? Write down honest answers ahead of time — the details can be embarrassing or expensive, but discovering them later costs you the sale.
No-shows, tire-kickers and ghosting
Cheap vehicles attract plenty of people who are only curious. Put the price and the honest condition in your first reply, and most of them filter themselves out before they take up your afternoon.
Lowball offers and pressure
People will offer a fraction of your price, in cash, today. You are allowed to say no. Agree the price before anyone travels, and never let a stranger rush you into a decision.
Scams aimed at sellers
Overpayment stories, fake buyers with a "shipping agent", requests to pay by wire transfer or payment-app code, and buyers who ask for your bank details. Cash in person, or a bank branch, or nothing.
It can take longer than you think
Give it a few weeks. If it is not selling, the price or the photos usually explain why. Dropping the price once or twice is normal for an old rig.
An old rig that nobody uses is rarely neutral. Removing it usually pays you back in more ways than money.
You get your space back
A driveway, a side yard, a parking spot — that space is yours again the day the rig leaves.
Stop paying to store it
Storage lots charge monthly whether the rig moves or not. If it has been sitting somewhere on your dime, selling it ends the bill.
Drop the running costs
Registration, insurance and upkeep on a vehicle you never use is money leaving your pocket every year. Once it is sold and reported, those stop.
Stop the decline
A rig that sits gets worse. Leaks turn into rot, tires flat-spot, seals dry out, rodents move in and wiring gets chewed. The longer it sits, the less it is worth and the more it costs to move.
It stops being a target
A dead vehicle in a yard draws theft, vandalism, complaints from neighbours, HOA letters and city notices about inoperable vehicles. Once it is gone, so is the problem.
Small money, or real relief
A small sale is still money in your pocket. A free giveaway is still cheaper than paying a hauler — and somebody gets a project they genuinely want.
It goes to someone who wants it
Plenty of people are hunting for a cheap shell, a parts rig, or something they can bring back to life. That is a better ending than the scrapyard, and it costs you less.
Getting it physically gone is its own problem, and it is worth understanding before you decide how to price it.
A rig nobody wants costs money to move
If it cannot be driven and nobody will take it, you are paying a hauler for a vehicle you are also not being paid for. That is the moment a free listing starts looking cheap.
If it cannot roll, it needs a flatbed
Bad tires, seized brakes, a dead engine or no plates means a proper tow rather than a friend with a strap. Get a quote before you promise anything to a buyer.
Scrap and junk haulers have limits
Many only want the metal, some charge by the mile or the ton, and some will not take a rig without a title. Ask what they actually need before they show up.
Local rules can force your hand
City ordinances on inoperable vehicles, HOA rules, campground limits and neighbour complaints can turn a parked rig into a deadline. Find out what applies where it sits.
You still have to sign the title over properly
Even giving it away needs the paperwork done right: your signature on the title, the buyer's name filled in, and a signed bill of sale with the date and price. Skipping this leaves the vehicle your problem on paper.
Keep your own record of the sale
Photograph the signed title, the bill of sale and the buyer's ID, then tell your state's motor vehicle department the vehicle is sold. Many states have a notice of sale or release of liability that stops tickets and towing bills following you.
Clear it out before a buyer arrives
Empty the tanks, remove personal belongings and anything you want to keep. Nobody wants to clean up after you, and an emptied rig is far easier to hand over.
No title at all
Some states allow an older or small trailer to transfer on a bill of sale alone, and some do not. Ask your motor vehicle department what the process is before you advertise it, so you do not waste a buyer's time.
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