Buyer's guide

Buying an old RV or trailer

Cheap rigs are out there. The trick is knowing what you are actually buying — and being sure the seller can legally sell it to you. Here is the general information worth reading before you travel to look at anything.

Read this first

FreeMotorHomes.com is a listing board, nothing more. We do not inspect vehicles, verify titles or ownership, hold money, or take any part in the deals buyers and sellers make. Everything on this page — and every step of your transaction — is solely the responsibility of the buyer and the seller. This is general information, not legal advice: rules differ from state to state and change over time, so confirm anything that matters with your own state's motor vehicle department or a professional before you hand over money.

01

IDs, titles and paperwork

The paperwork is where cheap deals go wrong. Before any money moves, slow down and match every document to the person standing in front of you and the vehicle behind them.

  • Ask for photo ID every time

    Ask to see the seller's driver's license or state ID and read the name on it. The name on the ID should match the name printed on the title exactly. If it does not, stop and ask why before you go any further.

  • Match the VIN on the title to the VIN on the rig

    Read the VIN off the vehicle yourself — on the dash or door jamb of a motor home, on the frame or tongue of a trailer — and check it character by character against the title. A title for a different vehicle is not a title for this one.

  • Check the title for a lien

    If a lender is named on the title, the seller may not be able to transfer it until the loan is paid off and the lien released. Ask for a lien release, or a clean title in the seller's name, before you commit to anything.

  • Make sure the seller can actually sell it

    If the person in front of you is not the person named on the title — a relative, a friend, someone flipping it — ask whose name will appear on the new title. A title that skips a name can leave you unable to register the rig at all.

  • Get a signed bill of sale

    Even where it is not required, write out a simple bill of sale with the date, the price, the VIN, both names and both signatures. Many states ask for it at the counter, and it settles arguments later.

  • Keep everything

    Photograph the signed title, the bill of sale, the VIN plate and the seller's ID at the meeting, and keep the originals somewhere safe. Never treat a photocopy of a title as the transfer document.

02

Registration, plates and state rules

Titling, registering, plating and taxing a vehicle is a state-by-state patchwork. The rules that usually apply to you are the ones in the state where you register it — not where you bought it — so do the homework before you travel.

  • The rules are different in every state

    Notarized signatures, witnesses, specific forms and inspections differ widely from state to state. A sale that is routine in one place can be hard to register somewhere else as-is. Look up your own state's requirements for an out-of-state purchase first.

  • Some states want a notary or a witness

    In several states the seller's signature on the title must be notarized, or signed in front of a witness, or both. If your state needs it and the seller's does not, plan for that at the meeting rather than discovering it afterwards.

  • Expect a tax bill at registration

    Most states collect sales or use tax when you register, and some base it on the price you declare or on a book value rather than what you actually paid. Budget for it on top of the purchase price.

  • Trailers have their own rules

    Small trailers are treated differently from motor homes. Some states do not title them at all, some do not require registration, and some want a weight or safety inspection. Find out what paperwork exists for the trailer before you assume you can plate it.

  • Plates usually stay with the seller

    In many states the plates belong to the seller and come off the vehicle, so do not plan to drive home on them. Ask before the day of the sale.

  • You may need a permit or a tow

    If the rig is not roadworthy, or cannot legally be driven without plates, you will need a temporary transport permit or a flatbed. Line that up and price it before you commit to buying.

  • Inspection and emissions

    Some states require a VIN inspection, a safety inspection or an emissions test before they will title or register an older vehicle. An old motor home can fail a test it was never designed to pass.

  • Insurance before plates

    You generally cannot register a vehicle without proof of insurance. Get a quote using the VIN before you buy, so a surprise premium does not sink the deal.

03

Inspecting an old rig

Old RVs are cheap for a reason, and water is that reason more often than not. Everything below is a negotiation point rather than a dealbreaker — as long as it is not a secret.

  • Water damage and rot first

    Look at the ceiling, the corners, around vents, skylights and roof seams, and inside the cabinets. Press the walls and floor for soft spots, and watch for a musty smell or fresh paint hiding a stain. Rot is the most expensive thing you can miss.

  • Tires age out

    Find the four-digit date code on the sidewall — week and year. RV tires can look fine with plenty of tread and still be years past safe. If they are old, price a full set of replacements into your offer.

  • Check the roof and every seal

    Old sealant fails. Look for cracked or patched caulking, missing vent covers, and staining around anything that penetrates the roof.

  • Ask to see the appliances running

    Fridge on both propane and electric, water pump, furnace, water heater, air conditioning, stove and oven. Watch them start rather than taking a description. Whatever does not work is a discount or a repair bill.

  • Plumbing, tanks and propane

    Check the fresh, grey and black tanks, the valve handles, and around the toilet for stains or a soft floor. Ask when the propane tanks were last recertified.

  • Motor homes: the mechanicals

    Engine, transmission, brakes, cooling, rust on the frame, and the generator. A pre-purchase inspection by a mechanic who knows older rigs is often the best money you will spend on the whole deal.

  • Trailers: frame and running gear

    Check the frame for cracks and heavy rust, the hitch and coupler, the lights and wiring, the floor near the door, and the brakes — many trailers have electric brakes that have not been touched in years.

  • Get the what-does-not-work list in writing

    Ask the seller to write down what is broken, what leaks and what has been replaced. It is fair, it is quick, and it is useful when you decide what to offer.

04

Money, keys and the handoff

The last ten minutes are the ones people regret. Keep the payment and the paperwork in the right order.

  • Pay in a way that leaves a trail

    A cashier's check, a bank transfer at the counter, or cash against a signed receipt. Be careful carrying a large amount of cash to a meeting you have never had before.

  • Never send a deposit sight unseen

    No deposit, no holding fee and no good-faith transfer before you have stood in front of the vehicle and read the title.

  • Money moves after the paperwork does

    Hand over payment only once the title is signed over to you, the bill of sale is signed by both of you, and the keys are in your hand.

  • Arrange transport before you buy

    If it cannot be driven legally or safely, know how it is getting home before money changes hands. A surprise tow bill can erase the bargain.

  • Meet somewhere sensible

    Daylight, a public place, and ideally not alone. For anything expensive, meeting at a bank or a motor vehicle office solves the payment and the paperwork in one trip.

05

Red flags

None of these automatically means a scam. All of them mean slow down and ask more questions before you part with money.

  • A price far below everything else

    Sometimes it is a genuine giveaway. Sometimes it is a wreck, a scam, or a title that does not exist. Ask the questions anyway.

  • Pressure to move fast

    "Someone else is coming this afternoon", a deposit needed today, cash only. Urgency is the oldest tool there is.

  • A seller who will not meet or will not show ID

    If the person will not meet in person, will not show ID, or will not let you read the title, walk away.

  • Wires, gift cards or payment app codes

    No legitimate vehicle sale requires a wire transfer, a gift card or a code sent to a stranger. Treat any request like that as fraud.

  • Title stories that do not add up

    "The title is in my cousin's name, I will get it signed later." A title that is not in the seller's name, or that you cannot see, is the single biggest risk on this page.

The short version

  • Look at the seller's ID and make sure the name matches the title
  • Read the VIN on the rig and match it character for character to the title
  • Check the title for a lien and for the right name
  • Get a signed bill of sale with the date, price and VIN
  • Find out what your state needs before you register — notary, inspection, tax
  • Budget for tires, transport, insurance and registration on top of the price
  • Check the roof, the corners and the floor for water damage and rot
  • Pay only once the title is signed over and the keys are in your hand

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